The grapes in Nick and Andy Peay’s vineyards are in a precarious
state most of the time. Quivering on the edge of the San Andreas Fault,
shrouded in hours of chilly fog and subjected to steady Pacific breezes,
it’s a wonder these grapes can ripen at all. The Peay’s and their
winemaker Vanessa Wong are not alone in the Western Sonoma Coast’s risky
winemaking climate. In fact, they enjoy some highly regarded company
including wineries such as Hirsch, Joseph Phelps and Littorai. I’m
always impressed and slightly agog at winemakers who seek the outermost
edge of anything; it takes certain boldness and, some might argue,
insanity, to invite extreme challenges into your winemaking. Andy Peay
admits there were more than enough naysayers when he and his brother
started farming the coast. “Everyone said it was way too cold and that
we’d never get grapes to ripen. In truth, we have had problems with
ripening; some years are just really tough.”
Bill Phelps, president of Joseph Phelps wines, agrees with Peay’s
assessment, noting that the Western Sonoma Coast wines exemplify a very
cool climate style of chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah. “We would say we
are truer to a Burgundian style; our wines are higher in minerality and
not as plush on fruit. They tend to be more structured, lower in
alcohol, and less extracted and fruit-dominated as wines from further
inland, such as the Russian River Valley.” Phelps is also one of the
founding members of the West Sonoma Coast Vintners Association which
includes wineries from Annapolis, Fort Ross/Seaview, Occidental,
Freestone, Green Valley and the Sebastopol Hills. The WSCV was formed in
large part to create a distinction between Western Sonoma Coast
wineries and the remaining Sonoma Coast AVA.
The distinction was necessary given the massive size of the Sonoma
Coast AVA, which includes some very inland turf. In 1987 California’s
Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau defined the region in a way
that included more than 500,000 acres, including some vineyards over 30
miles from the actual coast. Given the jumbo sized geography of the
official AVA, it can be reasonably argued that Peay and his neighboring
winemakers represent the true Sonoma Coast—the coastiest of the coast,
the edgiest of the edge, the coldest of the cold.
Political
boundaries aside, Peay cites his main reason for heading so far west was
the climate. “With our cool climate you retain acidity and don’t
accumulate as much sugar and you get phenolic development at the same
time. In warmer places your grape sugars go up in a short period of time
and things get out of balance.” Peay’s wines, much like those of his
neighbors, possess intense flavors, femininity and elegance. Despite
being bundled up in the big Sonoma Coast AVA, these wines easily set
themselves apart with a hallmark shivery intensity, something one might
expect from wines made on the edge.
A Taste of the Western Edge: Syrah, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
2010 Cobb Pinot Noir, Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard.
This particular wine was also showcased at Pinot at Cloudy Bay in
2013—winning praise from critics and ranking in the top 5 of 40 wines
tasted—silky, with a lingering finish, balanced, utterly feminine,
holding court nicely between acidity, minerality and gorgeous high-toned
fruit notes. Just sexy. 2011 Freeman Akikos Cuvée Pinot Noir.
Dark forest floor, raspberry, pomegranate, cherry and cardamom. Wild
strawberry married with clean, precise acidity and balance. Cerebral and
refined, a wine to drink over dinner. 2011 Hirsch Vineyards “San Andreas Fault” Estate Pinot Noir.
The actual San Andreas Fault rests a mere 2.5 miles from the vineyard
that is used to create this wine. This fault line terroir lends a
layered complexity to the wine. Pure elegance with notes of ripe cherry,
violets and earth. 2011 Joseph Phelps Chardonnay, Pastorale Vineyard.
These grapes grow a mere five miles from the Pacific Ocean, so ripening
is always edgy. Delightful nose of lemon cream and tropical fruits with
an almost juicy, savory acidity on the palate followed by a rich and
lasting finish. Knockout tasty. 2010 Red Car Estate Fort Ross-Seaview Syrah.
Utterly silky and concentrated with ripe blue fruits, layers of
complexity, soft tannins and feminine structure. Light-bodied in
appearance but packs a complex –marvelously rich palate. All the power
of Syrah folded into a pair ballet slippers.
Article & Photos Sourced From: http://www.forbes.com/sites/katiebell/2014/03/06/californias-edgiest-wine-region-western-sonoma-coast/
At its
regular Libation Party at the Moraga Barn June 19, the Lamorinda Wine
Growers Association celebrated the acceptance of its application for
Lamorinda to become an official grape growing region. Once the decision
is ratified and published, which can take up to two years, local growers
will be able to include the official appellation "Lamorinda Wine" on
their bottle labels.
Working with experts as the group developed their application, they
discovered that Lamorinda is even more unique than they thought. Not
only is it a historical wine-growing region with a unique climate, but
the geology in Lamorinda is unlike that of its neighbors.
Unfortunately, meeting certain criteria of Lamorinda's unique geology
meant that some properties had to be left out of the American
Viticultural Area.
In order to apply to get an appellation with some chance of success,
many criteria had to be scientifically demonstrated. LWGA hired two
geologists, Dr. Michael Oskin and Dr. Kenneth L. Verosub (a specialist
of the relationship between soils and wine), from the University of
California, Davis to study the local geology and soil, as well as
Patrick L. Shabram, a geographer who drafted the petition to the US
Department of Treasury Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).
What was discovered is that Lamorinda grapes grow on uplifted
sedimentary rock that is a younger, less resistant sedimentary rock than
neighboring rock. It was also found out that soils are higher in clay
content (which will not surprise anybody), and that combined with the
gentle sloping of the terrain permits good drainage.
Lamorinda also has a unique climate, protected from coastal cooling
influences, an area of transition from cooler, marine-influenced
climates to warmer inland climates, with multiple microclimate pockets
due to the topography. The last unique characteristic is the suburban
setting. The AVA covers 29,369 acres and includes approximately 121
acres of planted vines and planned plantings across approximately 42
vineyards. Those are a large number of small vineyards, mixed in low
density housing areas, where all the work is done by hand.
"We had no idea about the geology of the area, they (Oskin and Verosub)
identified that fact fairly quickly on geological maps, and confirmed
with field work and testing, and the area coincides with the boundary of
Lamorinda," said AVA Committee leader Dave Rey, who served as the
liaison to the UC Davis experts and professionals who worked on the
application. "The grapes grown here are different. The combination of
the terrain, the warm days and cooler nights makes it perfect for
growing grapes. We need that designation to represent what's unique
about our growing circumstance."
LWGA also researched the history of wine making in Lamorinda and
discovered that growing grapes in Lamorinda goes way back. The 1860
census showed that local growers John Grinnell, Daniel Hunsaker, Isaac
Hunsaker, and William B. Rodgers collectively produced 623 gallons of
wine in the Lafayette/Alamo area (Alamo is not part of the proposed
AVA). Then in 1907, Serafino Rossi started growing wine grapes
commercially at a site currently occupied by Reliez Valley Vineyards in
Lafayette. In Moraga the Trelut brothers who settled there in 1880
planted vines, and in Orinda by 1897, Theodore Wagner was commercially
growing grapes.
"We were amazed to find out how unique we are," commented LWGA
President Susan Captain, "and very excited because this appellation will
bring value to Lamorinda. It puts a stamp on how distinct we are."
As the process went on, some property owners - some part of LWGA -
found out they could not be part of the AVA without compromising the
scientific criteria. Some parts of Orinda close to the Caldecott Tunnel
and some areas of Lafayette close to Walnut Creek had to be excluded;
Canyon altogether could not be added. On the other hand, one Indian
Valley property in Moraga, which had not been included at first, was
added after the consultant researched the property.
The Lamorinda application has been formally accepted by the TTB, which
means the TTB agrees that a new AVA is likely warranted. "We are now
entering a process that could take two years," warned Captain. First
the TTB creates what is called a "proposed rule making" in support of
the AVA, which could take a year. Then a comment period will be opened
to the public, and the TTB will prepare a "final rule" that will be
published in the Federal Register as a treasury decision.
Although some new information could still cause the TTB to change its
mind, LWGA says that is extremely rare. "We are confident that our
application will be accepted; it is just a matter of time," said Rey.
"In the meantime, we at LWGA will focus on the quality of our wines, a
work of love that combines science and art."
Article written by : By Sophie Braccini
Article and Photo Sourced by: LaMorInda Weekly.com: http://www.lamorindaweekly.com/archive/issue0709/Lamorinda-Gets-Closer-to-Official-Wine-Region-Designation.html
