Showing posts with label San Francisco Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label San Francisco Food. Show all posts

Monday, May 2, 2016

New Bay Area Restaurants: April 2016



(By Sarah Fritsche, SFGateAfter March’s mild lull, April saw an uptick in new restaurant openings. Read on for more details about the month’s most high-profile restaurants and bars, as well as this month’s other notable openings:
Mister Jiu’s: Probably the highest profile opening of the month was chef Brandon Jew’s long-awaited Chinatown restaurant. The remodeled main dining room and bar area are gorgeous and Jew is serving a multi-course Cantonese-meets-NorCal family-style banquet menu. If you visit, be sure to check out the fancy lazy-Susan tables that were designed by Jew and his cousin Ryan Lee.
28 Waverly Pl. (between Clay and Sacramento), S.F. misterjius.com
Wildhawk: Another prominent opening was the PlumpJack Group’s glamorous (and somewhat controversial) overhaul of the space that formerly housed beloved lesbian bar and community touchstone, the Lexington Club space.
3436 19th St., between Valencia and Mission, S.F. (415) 420-1516.wildhawksf.com
The only holdovers from the bar's Lexington days are the curved wooden bar and wooden floor. Photo: Liz Hafalia/The Chronicle
The only holdovers from the bar’s Lexington days are the curved wooden bar and wooden floor. Photo: Liz Hafalia/The Chronicle
Rancho Nicasio: April marked the debut of fine dining chef Ron Siegel in his new tenure at this historic Marin roadhouse. While known for his previous work at high-end restaurants like Michael Mina and the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Siegel says his contemporary American menu is more approachable.
1 Old Rancheria Rd., Nicasio. (415) 662-2219. ranchonicasio.com
Tony Gemignani’s Slice House: The 12-time World Pizza Champ has opened yet another outpost of his pie shop, this time inside Twitter Building marketplace, The Market. Look for his Walnut Creek outpost to open sometime in the next month or so.
1355 Market St. (in The Market), S.F. slicehouse.com 
Rooftop Restaurant & Bar: Speaking of Walnut Creek, this newly opened al fresco eatery will occupy the same venue that houses the U.S. outpost of Barcelona tapas restaurant, Teleferic, along with Gemignani’s forthcoming pizza shop.
1500 Mt Diablo Blvd., Ste 300, Walnut Creek. rooftopwc.com
Sweetgreen: Another new addition to the East Bay dining scene is this Washington, D.C.-based fast casual chain, which took over longtime Berkeley burger joint, Oscar’s. While the menu is a complete 180 from the previous occupant, happily much of the original architecture, including the sign, remain.
1890 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley. (510) 990-8262. sweetgreen.com
The Den: In addition to the usual pastries, Craftsman & Wolves’ new Bayview shop, which is adjacent to William Werner’s production kitchen and forthcoming confectionery kitchen, offers a pay it forward pizza program.
1598 Yosemite Ave., S.F. (415) 423-3337. craftsman-wolves.com
Den Scoop
The Den, located at Craftsman & Wolve’s Bayview production facility. Photo: William Werner
Bar San Pancho: Also in the Mission, Joe Hargrave and his Tacolicious team reopened the old Chino space with this latest incarnation, which showcases Mexican bar food.
3198 16th St.(at Guerrero St.), S.F. (415) 649-6077.
Basalt: Up in Wine Country, Moana Restaurant Group opened their latest in downtown Napa’s former Fish Story space.The menu from Esteban Escobar is seasonal Californian, peppered with the flavors of Spain, Mexico and Portugal. Former Chronicle Bar Star Jason “Buffalo” Lo Grasso is heading up the cocktail program.
790 Main St., Napa. (707) 927-5265. basaltnapa.com
Anchor Distilling Tasting Room: In addition to the historic Potrero Hill brewery tours, Anchor’s distillery has also started offering guided tours of its edible rooftop garden (home to the herbs and botanicals that are used in the spirits-making process) and production process.
1705 Mariposa St., S.F. (415) 863-5702. anchordistilling.com/tastingroom
WesBurger n’ More: The Mission Street brick-and-mortar of photographer/blogger/burger aficionado Wes Rowe’s beloved pop-up finally opened its doors. In addition to three different burger options, each made with Rowe’s signature coarsely ground, all-brisket patties, the menu also boasts Nashville hot chicken and three different kinds of tater tots.
2240 Mission St. (between 18th and 19th streets), S.F. (415) 555-1234. wesburgernmore.com
‘Aina: Another pop-up turned permanent, this one showcasing Hawaiian-inspired brunch opened in the Dogpatch neighborhood. The team behind the brunch spot are La Folie alums Jordan Keao and Jason Alonzo. If you go, be sure to order Keao’s malasadas with guava custard.
900 22nd St. (at Minnesota Street), S.F. (415) 814-3815. ainasf.com

Monday, January 19, 2015

Six hot trends from 2015 Winter Fancy Food Show

The Fancy Food Show once again took over San Francisco's Moscone Center this week. Photo: Noah Berger/The Chronicle 2011
The Fancy Food Show once again took over San Francisco’s Moscone Center this week. Photo: Noah Berger/The Chronicle 2011

2015 marks the 40th anniversary of the Winter Fancy Food Show, which wraps up today at San Francisco’s Moscone Center.

The WFFS is the largest marketplace devoted exclusively to specialty foods and beverages on the West Coast. Some 1,400 exhibitors — ranging from established mega-corps to small indie artisans looking to get a foothold in the specialty food market — participated in the three day event.

Imagine Comic-Con, except with food — aisles upon aisles of food.


With so many food industry movers and shakers under one roof, it also happens to be a great place to spy burgeoning food trends (along with reminding us of fads that just won’t die — we’re looking at you, bacon). Here are just some of the major trends we spotted over the past two days:

We're cuckoo for coconut!
Big Tree’s coconut nectar.


Coconut: It’s everywhere — and in almost everything. Which is not a huge surprise considering the skyrocketing popularity of coconut water in recent years. What was mind blowing though, were just how many coco-centric products are now flooding the market, and the wide variety of forms — ranging from water, caramel, chips, cookies, granola, flour, syrups, vinegar, and even beer (Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Porter). This is a trend that’s at its peak.

New line of turmeric teasans from Numi Organic Tea.
Turmeric teasans from Numi Organic Tea.


Turmeric: Is it the new acai? It would seem so. Touting healthful, anti-inflammatory properties, we spied the pungent root in no fewer than seven products — snack foods, soda, juice and so on — but mostly in tea form, including a new teasan line from Oakland’s Numi Organic Tea.

Chickpeas were showing strong in a variety of forms including crunchy and honey-roasted.
Nourish Snacks’ chickpeas.


Chickpeas: These versatile legumes are for more than making hummus — chickpea and hummus-based crackers, chips, and even served whole and crunchy in a variety of flavors including honey, wasabi and Korean BBQ.

Azuma Gourmet's seaweed sesame hummus and seaweed salad were just two of the numerous seaweed  products we spotted.
Azuma Gourmet’s seaweed sesame hummus and seaweed salad.


Seaweed: An increasing number of roasted seaweed snacks are popping up. We also spied seaweed used as a flavoring in two different popcorns (479 Degrees and Pop Art), sweet snack bars, as well as in hummus form (blended with the aforementioned chickpea) from Hayward’s Azuma Gourmet.

Maple products also made a strong showing.
Vosges’ Maple Caramel.


Maple: For more than just pancakes — in addition to syrup form, we saw maple flavoring BBQ sauce, tea, coffee, frozen desserts and caramels (Vosges Haut-Chocolat).

There were also an abundance of food products featuring the  flavors of India and Southeast Asia.
Eliot’s Adult Nut Butter.


South Asian Flavors: The flavors of India and Southeast Asia are permeating the market in unexpected ways — think masala chai caramel corn and savory spreads, like Portland-based Eliot’s Adult Nut Butters’ garam masala and spicy Thai coconut infused peanut butters.


A few other takeaways: Lastly, from kale chips, paleo-friendly snacks to ancient grain this and that — the “healthy” snack craze isn’t going anywhere. Whether or not this a good thing — you be the judge.

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

The biggest San Francisco Bay Area restaurant and bar openings of 2014

Boy, it sure was another busy year. Restaurants and bars keep opening in the Bay Area, and 2014 was another year full of newcomers.




As you can see in the gallery above, the newbies came in all shapes and sizes, ranging from multi-million dollar blockbusters to humble yet heartfelt passion projects.

Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer will share his Top 10 Restaurants of the Year in Sunday’s Food & Home section, and here on Scoop, we’ll have more year-end coverage throughout the rest of this holiday week, like closures, trends and much more.

Do note that for the purposes of this particular list, we did not include any of the restaurants that reopened in newer, bigger locations (Ichi Sushi, Lolo, Marlowe, Emmy’s), or the ones that expanded their current ones (Outerlands, Hog Island Oyster Company), or the ones that reopened in similar fashions after brief vacations (Big 4, Sam’s Grill).



What new restaurants did you love this year? Which ones did you find overrated or disappointing? Which ones weren’t on our list? How many on the list have you been to? Share your thoughts in the comments.



The full chronological list, with links to the stories about the restaurants, their stories and their address:
Pizzahacker, The Mission
Prubechu, The Mission
Blue Bottle, Oakland
The Dock at Linden Street, Oakland
Kin Khao, Union Square
The Coachman, SoMa
Molina, Mill Valley
Trou Normand, SoMa
Archetype, St. Helena
Souvla, Hayes Valley
Terra Cotta Warrior, The Sunset
Woodbury, SoMa
Red Dog, SoMa
Los Shucos, The Mission
The Commissary, The Presidio
Palm House, Cow Hollow
Kusakabe, Financial District
Los Cilantros, Berkeley
Chubby Noodle, The Marina
Gaspar Brasserie. Financial District
Bartlett Hall, Union Square
Smokestack/Magnolia, Dogpatch
4505 Burgers & BBQ, Divisadero
Schroeder’s, Financial District
La Rondalla, The Mission
Urban Putt, The Mission
Dirty Habit, SoMa
Chino, The Mission
Aveline, Union Square
The Farmer & The Fox, St. Helena
Belcampo Meat Co., Russian Hill
San Francisco Athletic Club, Divisadero
The Interval, Fort Mason
Pabu/Ramen Bar, Financial District
Causwells, The Marina
Monsieur Benjamin, Hayes Valley
Shakewell, Oakland
ABV, The Mission
The Tradesman, The Mission
Plin, The Mission
Ferry Plaza Seafood, North Beach
Urchin Bistrot, The Mission
Longitude, Oakland
Bourbon Steak & Pub, Santa Clara
Beso, The Castro
Jack’s Oyster Bar & Fish House, Oakland
Les Clos, SoMa
Bandidos/Hecho, The Castro
Wrecking Ball, Cow Hollow
Woods Bar & Brewery, Oakland
Lazy Bear, The Mission
The Hall, Mid-Market
Pink Zebra, The Mission
Arguello, The Presidio
Plank, Oakland
Mochica, Potrero Hill
Orenchi Beyond, The Mission
Huxley, Tenderloin
Brenda’s Meat and Three, Divisadero
Game, Nob Hill
Tap(415), SoMa
Rintaro, The Mission
Crystal Jade Jiang Nan, Financial District
Hapa Ramen, The Mission
Stem, Mission Bay
Kirimachi Ramen, Financial District
La Snackeria, Oakland
Mr. Holmes Bakehouse, Tenderloin
Cockscomb, SoMa
Seed + Salt, The Marina
Brewcade, The Castro
Devil’s Acre, North Beach
The Progress, Fillmore
Hogwash, Union Square
Marla Bakery, The Richmond


Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Contemporary classic Arguello

One of the most ridiculous criticisms on consumer websites and social media about Arguello, the new Mexican restaurant in the converted officers’ club at the Presidio, is that owner Traci Des Jardins is an Anglo.



That argument doesn’t track on several counts. For one thing, it’s nonsense that having a certain ethnic heritage makes you inherently better at producing the cuisine. Secondly, Des Jardins’ mother and grandparents are Mexican, and she grew up with the cuisine.

It’s also odd that no one made the criticism when she was cooking California/French food at Rubicon or at her three-star Jardinière.




If the food is good, it’s not just because of ethnic background; it’s because the chef has the passion, reverence and integrity to make it, regardless of the style. And from my three visits to Arguello, we can check off those boxes.



Des Jardins is a talented chef, whether she’s creating Latino, French, Italian or American food. Arguello offers classic preparations with a modern sensibility — an uncharacteristically short menu for this style of cuisine, for example, with only eight appetizers and four main plates.




The space also supports a more contemporary approach — even more so than the Commissary, the nearby Spanish-California restaurant Des Jardins opened earlier this year.

There’s a rustic elegance in the wood-beamed ceiling, the tile floor and the circular iron chandeliers that speaks to the building’s history. The space has an open feel, thanks to the windows and the doors that open to the officers’ lounge. Outside there’s a modern 24-seat patio with a fireplace which can be used to produce tortillas and other items. The 56-seat dining room is separated from the lounge and open kitchen by a shoulder-high partition.



The menu includes an excellent guacamole ($6.50) with warm, salty chips that shatter in layers with each bite, and spicy pumpkin seeds ($2) that go with the extensive Tequila and cocktail list. On one visit, however, it seemed the chips, which can also be ordered with two house-made salsas ($3.50), tasted as if they were fried in old oil because they left a harsh, bitter aftertaste.

The smaller plates include an excellent albondigas soup ($9) with meatballs, potato, crunchy tortilla strips and an intense chicken broth with a touch of heat, unleashed in layers. Crisp chicken taquitos ($11) look similar to those found in grocers’ freezers, but the chicken filling is fresh, as is the avocado and tomatillo salsa and the bed of shredded iceberg lettuce.

Ingredients are noticeably pristine, as shown in the salad with cold crunchy escarole ($13) with roasted squash, queso fresco and a cumin-pumpkin seed vinaigrette. There’s also a salad of Little Gems ($9) with radishes, cilantro and cotija cheese; and a stellar reinvention of a classic combination: jicama sticks with citrus and avocado in a nicely piquant dressing ($13).

The quality also shows on the mushroom quesadilla ($10.50) with a pleasing medicinal touch from epazote and a tender golden crust.

While many people shy away from tongue ($14), it’s a dish that shows the more complex, rustic side of Mexican cuisine. A stack of thick triangles of seared meat are complemented by chayote, slightly crunchy pickled vegetables and sauce estofada, a complex mole with tomato, capers, olives and a hint of sweetness.

The four larger plates include a vegetarian option with roasted squash, poblanos and patties of queso fresco boldly enhanced with epazote, cilantro and onions ($12).

Pollo chile verde ($15) is the dish I’d come back for, with a richly layered sauce and cilantro rice. Caramelized pork shoulder ($18) features big chunks of meat on a cabbage salad. I can see why it’s a favorite, but I felt the orange in the sauce needed more serrano chile balance.

Two desserts ($4) offer a soothing respite: a creamy, palate-coating caramel flan, and rice pudding with just the right amount of sweetness, pierced with rum-soaked raisins.

Service is still in the building phase and fluctuated from visit to visit. It can be slow, which may also be the result of kitchen backups.

On one visit, we arrived a few minutes before our third dining companion, and even though only a few tables were occupied, the host had a somewhat haughty attitude and refused to seat us until everyone was there.

However, the bar is welcoming and the bartenders stir up a good margarita ($10) with Pueblo Viejo Blanco Tequila, fresh lime and agave; and El Presidio ($11) with Partida Blanco Tequila, grapefruit, angostura bitters and soda water.

Getting to the restaurant can feel like a trek, but it’s a peaceful drive through eucalyptus stands and brick and wooden barracks. The former military base dates back to 1776; when it closed in 1995, it was the longest continuously operating military base in the United States.

Arguello plays into the history by celebrating the importance of the Mexican population to the area. It’s nice that Des Jardins is of Mexican descent, but being a great cook is the key.

★ ★ ½

Arguello
Food: ★ ★½
Service: ★ ★
Atmosphere: ★ ★
Price: $
Noise: Four Bells

50 Moraga Ave., in the Presidio, San Francisco; (415) 561-3650. www.arguellosf.com

Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday-Friday; brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday, until 4 p.m. Sunday. Dinner 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday (bar menu 3-5 p.m.).

  • Full bar
  • No reservations
  • Credit cards accepted
  • Paid lot (free after 6 p.m.)

Friday, October 31, 2014

For the Bay Area’s best brunches, think global

The solution: Go global.Some of the most popular brunch spots, such as Sweet Maple on Sutter Street in San Francisco, specialize in traditional American breakfast foods plumped and primped for brunch — omelets, scrambles and, of course, the much-copied phenom “millionaire’s bacon.” But if you want to go beyond eggs (even good ones), these restaurants offer adventuresome weekend meals.
— Kitty Morgan, kmorgan@sfchronicle.com


Dim sum: Ton Kiang 
Just a few years ago, Ton Kiang was a Sunday morning must-stop. But San Francisco’s dim sum world is large; it contains multitudes. And so the chatter moved on, as it does; specifically, in the Richmond, the scrum on the sidewalks of Geary seemed to shift slightly east, to Hong Kong Lounge. In any case, if you haven’t lately, venture west again back to Ton Kiang: Dim sum at this Hakka-Cantonese stalwart is better than ever — and, for the moment, a relatively brisk wait if you go before 11 a.m.
5821 Geary Blvd., S.F.; (415) 387-8273. www.tonkiang.net. Cart service 10 a.m.- 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
— Jon Bonné, jbonne@sfchronicle.com
Dim sum: City View Restaurant
The chaos that is the semi-mandatory downtown ritual of Yank Sing — hey, parking! — make this pristinely white-walled alternative, squeezed between the FiDi and Chinatown, all the more appealing. Of course, City View has its own proud partisans, and with good reason: the siu mai are delicate but deeply imbued with pork flavor, the char siu sou (baked pork “turnovers”) are flaky enough to make a patissier blush, and there’s a skilled hand with the frying: don’t miss the XO sauce pan-fried noodles, headily rich and perfectly crisp at the edge. Pro tip: weekday lunch.
662 Commercial St., S.F.; (415) 398-2838. www.cityviewdimsum.com. Open 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
— Jon Bonné
Brexican: Tacubaya 
Fourth Street on a weekend morning is the kind of scene you can watch for hours, which is why it can be so hard to get a seat on the patio outside Thomas Schnetz and Dona Savitsky’s 11-year-old taqueria. The fresh tortillas are still part of the draw of breakfast here; wrap them around eggs scrambled with chorizo or huevos divorciados smothered in green and red salsas. An even bigger draw: the chilaquiles, crisp fried tortillas scrambled with eggs, onions and a guajillo salsa spicy enough to have you grabbing for your water. Because no one — and by that I mean everyone — wants to see you crying in public.
1788 Fourth St., Berkeley; (510) 525-5160. www.tacubaya.net. Breakfast/brunch 10 a.m.-noon Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
— Jonathan Kauffman, jkauffman@sfchronicle.com

Brexican: Gallardos 
The families who fill Gallardos’ marigold-colored dining room on Sunday mornings are not here for the eggs scrambled with beef, chorizo or cactus and peppers, though you’ll spot a few of those plates. You’ll find better chilaquiles elsewhere. What appear on every table are giant white bowls filled with Jaliscan stews, only available on the weekends. The menudo, robustly spiced and filled with pillowy squares of braised tripe, is some of the best in the Mission. Even better is the lamb birria, with broth the color of dried guajillos or freshly spilled blood, a hue as intense as its flavor. Order the shredded meat on the side so you can roll it in warm tortillas with onions and salsa and then dip each bite into the soup.
3248 18th St., SF; (415) 436-9387. Open 7 a.m.-8 p.m. daily.
— Jonathan Kauffman

South Asian: Vik’s Chaat Corner 
Weekend lunch at Vik’s isn’t exactly a languorous meal. It involves hunting for contiguous chairs in a jammed dining room, straining to listen for your name over the loudspeaker and running up to the counter to ferry back trays of Indian street snacks before they lose their crunch. But there are too many weekend specials that merit a special trip: soft, spongy idli (steamed rice-flour dumplings) served with spiced lentil stew and coconut chutney. Dhokhla, a fluffy, savory cake made out of chickpea flour. Chicken biryani darkened with ground spices. Dining here may not be relaxing, but it will send you out into the afternoon buoyed on a chile-fueled endorphin rush.
2390 Fourth St., Berkeley; (510) 644-4432. www.vikschaatcorner.com. Open 11-6 p.m. Monday-Thursday, until 8 p.m. Friday-Sunday.
— Jonathan Kauffman
Ethiopian: Cafe Colucci 
There are scrambled eggs on Cafe Colucci’s practically secret breakfast menu. If you order the full Ethiopian breakfast, a thick yellow strip of eggs, flecked with herbs, is presented next to a pale band of cracked wheat and a deep red mound of fitfit. A sort of Ethiopian chilaquiles, the fitfit is made with torn strips of injera (spongy teff flatbread) saturated with beef, tomatoes and spices. The waiters can be strict about the 11 a.m. changeover from breakfast to lunch, no one will prevent you from lingering over your creamy flaxseed smoothie and bowl of foul, a savory fava-bean stew topped with minced tomatoes, onions and green chiles.
6427 Telegraph Ave., Oakland; (510) 601-7999. www.cafecolucci.com. Breakfast 8-11 a.m. daily.
— Jonathan Kauffman


Korean: Namu Gaji 
You merge left through the Bi-Rite Creamery line though the handsome doors of this corner spot greeted by a warm, weekend buzz. Place your order at the register, then grab a bar stool in front of large open windows. The Hangtown Benedict (fried oysters, house bacon, dashi gravy, poached egg, Namu biscuit) is a much appreciated twist on the classic brunch dish. However, the okonomiyaki, a crispy yet gooey savory pancake with kimchi, oko sauce and fluttering bonito flakes, is not to be missed at this lively, community-focused spot.
499 Dolores St., S.F.; (415) 431-6268. www.namusf.com. Brunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
— Lauren Reuthinger, lreuthinger@sfchronicle.com
Japanese: Ramen Dojo 
No one likes to stand in line, but dozens of people are willing, if they’ll get some of the best ramen in the Bay Area. The tiny 25-seat restaurant specializes in pork ramen with a kick, filled with lots of firm noodles and a rich textured garlic meat broth. You can choose a few toppings and three levels of spiciness; the mild lets the ingredients shine while on some days the hot will set you on fire.
805 South B St., San Mateo; (650) 401-6568. Brunch/lunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesday-Monday.
— Michael Bauer, mbauer@sfchronicle.com

Contemporary deli: Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen 
In a small corner storefront in the Mission, Wise Sons joins the neighborhood’s funky DIY esthetic with a reverence for tradition. The house-made fuchsia-pink pastrami, scrambled with eggs and caramelized onions, is simultaneously salty, chewy and creamy; the stack of 2-inch-thick challah French toast threatens to spill off the plate. Wait in line at the register to order; please, do not commit the newbie faux pas of snagging a table before you’ve done so.
3150 24th St., S.F.; (415) 787-3354. www.wisesonsdeli.com. Breakfast/brunch 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
— Kitty Morgan
California soul: Brown Sugar Kitchen 
This cheery diner-cum-restaurant is always buzzing with conversation and the sound of good things sizzling. The food is both straightforward and lush. The light cornmeal waffle with a sweet-sour cider syrup is famous, but a whole meal can be made of a bowl of cheese grits floated with butter. Unless you can’t resist the pulled pork hash.
2534 Mandela Parkway, Oakland; (510) 839-7685. www.brownsugarkitchen.com. Breakfast/brunch 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday.
— Kitty Morgan
Vietnamese: Out the Door 
The weekend brunch menu at thisCharles Phan restaurant plays traditional Vietnamese dishes, such as the wide rice noodle dish of bahn cuon, against standards like steak and eggs. But the bahn cuon will be beautifully arranged on an elegant salad; the steak dish features a rustic cut of bavette sliced atop softly scrambled eggs, with a deep green, sharp chimichurra more like pesto than a sauce — one of the best versions of steak and eggs I’ve had. The jook — chicken porridge — will pull you out of last night’s “too much fun” fog. The spare interior can feel a bit formal, but by noon, when the tables and long counters fill, and glasses of good wine are poured, this is a class brunch act. Make a reservation, or wait to sit at the communal table or long counter overlooking the kitchen action.
2232 Bush St., S.F.; (415) 923-9575. www.outthedoors√.com. Brunch 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
— Kitty Morgan